Note, we will be closed for a holiday from Saturday 22 December. Open again Wednesday
8 January 2020.
earlier press coverage
From the eclectic, brightly-coloured modern artwork that decorates the interior of
this diminutive 28-cover establishment, to the sincerely warm welcome meeted out
by joint proprietor Helen Everitt-Matthias and, above all, the imaginative and assured
cooking of her husband, David, what's on offer here is the most individual and extraordinarily
It seems incredible to learn that only two other chefs support David in the kitchen
because his dishes often involve a host of deftly-handled components. A starter of
seared scallops with crispy-baked Cumbrian ham comes served on a deliciously light
Crown Prince pumpkin puree, with a flourish of caramelised balsamic around the edge
of the plate adding a necessary touch of sweetness, and a light sauce of fish stock,
milk, bread and nougat delivering complexity and depth.
For main course, meanwhile, a delicately-cooked hake fillet comes with a lovely summery
risotto made with peas, broad beans, watercress and rocket, and is further enhanced
by a few sharp baby capers and a delightfully fresh parsley cream. Alternatively,
a mouthwateringly tender piece of pork belly comes kaleidoscopically flavoured with
five spice, ginger, cloves, fennel seeds, star anise and dried orange peel, and is
served with parsnip puree and girolles, providing a symphony of sweet and savoury
Desserts continue the finesse: a gutsy fig tatin being perfectly matched by a spiced
bread ice cream and burnt orange syrup, while the wine list includes plenty of fairly-priced
bottles. All in all, this restaurant in itself provides reason enough to get in the
car and make off to Cheltenham for an indulgent weekend.