LE CHAMPIGNON SAUVAGE RESTAURANT,

24-26, SUFFOLK ROAD, CHELTENHAM, GLOS. GL50 2AQ. UK.

TEL: 01242-573449 FAX: 01242-254365

I just love scallops and will not apologise at all for the frequent use of them in my book, ‘essence’. They are quick to cook and have a wonderful natural sweetness. The cauliflower works as a bitter foil to the scallops, while the acidity and sweetness of the apple garnish complement them. The ras el hanout caramel adds another texture to the dish altogether.

Serves 6

For the seared scallops

9 extra-large hand-dived scallops
50ml olive oil
50g unsalted butter
 

For the ras el hanout caramel

200g caster sugar
2 tablespoons water
3 pinches of ras el hanout (see below)
 

Ras el hanout

15g cumin seeds
5g fennel seeds
10g coriander seeds
4cm piece of cinnamon stick
1 dried chilli
5g cardamom pods
5g ground ginger
20g ajowan seeds
7g medium curry powder
6 cloves
20 dried rosebuds
 

For the cauliflower purée

1 medium cauliflower
125g unsalted butter

For the cumin velouté

30g cumin seeds
250ml Fish Stock
200ml milk
150ml double cream
2g powdered lecithin
a little lemon juice, if needed

To garnish

3 medium cauliflower florets, thinly sliced
1 Granny Smith apple, cut into matchsticks
1 punnet of pea shoots

Preparing the scallops

Remove and discard the scallop ‘skirt’ and the orange roe, leaving only the pure white part of the scallop. If there is any grit, wipe it off with a damp cloth. Cut each scallop horizontally in half to give you 18 discs. Place on a damp cloth on a tray, cover and leave in the fridge. Remove 5 minutes before needed.
 

Ras el hanout

The quantities will make more than you need but it will keep in a jar for about a month. Heat a sturdy frying pan and add all the spice mix ingredients except the rosebuds. Toast on a medium heat until the seeds begin popping and a wonderful smell starts to come forth. Place in a spice grinder, coffee mill or liquidiser, add the rosebuds and blitz to a fine powder.
 

Ras el hanout caramel

Put the sugar and water in a small, heavy-based saucepan and heat gently, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Raise the temperature and boil, without stirring, until a golden caramel has been obtained; it should be the colour of teak. Have a baking tray lined with baking parchment, a rolling pin and another sheet of baking parchment ready. As soon as the caramel is the correct colour, pour it on to the lined tray and sprinkle immediately with the ras el hanout. Place the other sheet of paper on top and carefully roll out the caramel through the paper until very thin. Allow to set hard, then break into pieces; approximately the same size as the cauliflower slices for garnish.

Cauliflower purée

Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil. Trim the cauliflower, discarding all the green and the major part of the stalk. Divide it into small florets, place in a sealable cooking bag, add the butter and some salt and pepper and seal, expelling as much air as possible. Place the bag in the water and cook for 30–40 minutes, until the cauliflower is very soft. Remove the bag and empty the contents into a blender. Blend until smooth, then check the seasoning.

Alternatively, if you do not have a cooking bag, place the cauliflower florets in a saucepan with 250ml milk, bring to the boil, then cover and simmer gently for 10–15 minutes, until the cauliflower is very tender. Drain, reserving the milk. Place in a blender, add 50g butter and blend until smooth, adding a little of the reserved milk if it is too thick.

In both cases, if the purée is too thick, add a little milk. If it is too thin, return it to a pan and cook gently until thick enough to hold its shape.
 

Cumin velouté

Put the cumin seeds in a heavy-based saucepan and heat until they start popping and give off a pleasant scent. Add the fish stock and simmer until reduced by a third. Add the milk and cream and simmer for 3–4 minutes. Whisk in the lecithin and 2 tablespoons of the cauliflower purée. Season to taste, adding a little lemon juice if necessary, then pass through a fine sieve. Keep warm until needed.

Cooking the scallops

Season the scallops with salt and pepper. Heat a large, heavy-based frying pan. When you feel the heat coming off it, put half the olive oil in it, then half the scallops. Cook for 30 seconds over a medium-high heat, then add half the butter. Cook for a further 1/2–1 minute, until golden underneath. Turn and cook for about 1 minute. Transfer to a warm plate, wipe out the pan with kitchen paper and repeat with the remaining scallops. When all are cooked, season again.
 

Serving

Place a little streak of cauliflower purée on either side of each serving plate. In the middle, arrange a piece of scallop, a slice of raw cauliflower and a piece of caramel. Repeat using 3 pieces of scallop for each portion. Carefully lay the apple matchsticks on top and then the pea shoots. Froth the cumin sauce with a stick blender and pour it over the scallops.