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essence - the recipe book
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12.30 - 1.15pm
(last order: 1.30pm)
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(last order: 8.45pm)

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 - Le Champignon Sauvage Restaurant, Cheltenham
 - Le Champignon Sauvage Restaurant, Cheltenham

LE CHAMPIGNON SAUVAGE RESTAURANT,

24-26, SUFFOLK ROAD, CHELTENHAM, GLOS. GL50 2AQ. UK.

TEL: 01242-573449 FAX: 01242-254365

 

This recipe (from my book ‘essence’) has been a work in progress for a long time, as we have been trying to get the texture just right and to stabilise the mixture. Well, I’ve finally done it. It started out as an olive oil and bitter chocolate mousse. My second chef at the time, Marcus McGuiness, suggested adding a salted caramel filling and set about working out the recipe. It quickly became apparent that this was a good idea but the mixture was very unstable, with a success rate of about 50 per cent. I then worked on a way of stabilising it, and discovered that the key was making a mayonnaise, which gave the olive oil something to hold on to. As a result, this is now one of our biggest sellers on the dessert menu. A great combination of tastes and textures, and a great collaboration between Marcus and myself.
 

Serves 8

For the malted barley ice cream

125g pearl barley
250ml double cream
500ml milk 1 vanilla pod, slit open lengthways
5 egg yolks
50g caster sugar
75g malt extract
 

For the sesame wafers

25g golden syrup
75g demerara sugar
25ml milk
75g unsalted butter
25g ground almonds
30g sesame seeds
 

For the salted caramel

250g granulated sugar
25ml water
150ml double cream
150g unsalted butter, diced
Maldon salt, to taste
 

For the chocolate délice

300g bitter chocolate (64–70 per cent cocoa solids), chopped, plus 125g bitter chocolate for the chocolate discs
25g unsalted butter
1/2 gelatine leaf
25ml hot water
2 egg yolks
5g bitter cocoa powder
200ml olive oil
5 egg whites (approximately 145g)


Malted barley ice cream

Spread the pearl barley out on a baking tray and place in an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4. Toast for about 5 minutes, until golden brown.

Put the cream, milk and split vanilla pod into a heavy-based pan, add the toasted barley and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 30–40 minutes. Place back on the heat and bring back to the boil. Whisk the egg yolks, caster sugar and malt extract together in a bowl, then pour in half the hot milk mixture, whisking continuously. Return the mixture to the pan and cook on a low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon (it should register about 84°C on a thermometer). Do not let it boil or it will become scrambled. Immediately strain through a fine sieve into a bowl and leave to cool. Pour into an ice-cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Place in the fridge to soften slightly about 10 minutes before serving.
 

Sesame wafers

Put the golden syrup and demerara sugar in a small pan and heat gently until the sugar has dissolved. Add the milk and leave to cool a little. Mix in the butter, ground almonds and sesame seeds. Place in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Spread the mixture on to a baking sheet lined with baking parchment, keeping it away from the edges as it will expand during cooking. Bake in an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 for 4–5 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool. Carefully break into the desired shape; we create random jagged pieces. Store in a sealed container until needed; the wafers can be made 3–4 days in advance.
 

Salted caramel

Put the sugar and water in a heavy-based pan and heat gently, stirring, until the sugar has dissolved. Raise the heat and cook without stirring until a rich, deep golden caramel is obtained, being careful not to take it too far or it will be bitter. The moment you are happy with the colour, remove the pan from the heat and pour in the double cream little by little; take care, as it will spit. Whisk until the caramel has dissolved. Cool slightly, then whisk in the butter a little at a time. Add the salt to your taste; start off with a pinch and gradually increase it until you achieve a slight saltiness. Leave to cool completely.
 

Chocolate délice

Put the 300g chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of gently simmering water, making sure the water doesn’t touch the base of the bowl. Stir until melted, being careful to keep any water away from the chocolate or it will thicken and become grainy. (Alternatively you could melt the chopped chocolate in a microwave, giving it 20 seconds, then stirring, 20 seconds, then stirring, and so on until silky and melted.) Stir in the butter, then place the bowl to one side, keeping it warm.

Soak the gelatine in cold water for about 5 minutes, until soft and pliable. Put the hot water in a small bowl. Squeeze out excess water from the gelatine and add it to the hot water, stirring until dissolved. Set aside. Whisk the egg yolks together and mix in the cocoa powder. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil a little at a time, whisking constantly, as if making mayonnaise. Stir in the gelatine water and then carefully add the mixture to the chocolate. Whisk the egg whites briefly, just to break them down (they should not be white and frothy), then carefully fold them into the chocolate mixture. Pour the mixture into 8 metal rings, 5cm in diameter and 5cm high, filling them two thirds full. Chill for 2 hours, until set. Keep the remaining chocolate mixture at room temperature. When the chocolate has set, push it up the sides of the moulds with your fingers so a well is formed in the centre. Pour in the salted caramel to just below the top of the mould. Place a chocolate disc on top and cover with the remaining chocolate mix. Return to the fridge until needed. They will keep for 3–4 days.
 

Chocolate discs

Melt the extra 125g chocolate as described above. Spread it out on a sheet of cellophane (you can even use a black bin bag) and leave to set. Cut into eight 4cm discs with a metal cutter.
 

Serving

Unmould the chocolate délice either by flashing a blowtorch quickly over the rings or by rolling them in the heat of your hands to release the mousse. Invert on to 8 serving plates. Place a scoop of ice cream on each plate and stud with a sesame wafer.

 

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